Sprinter ceiling panels

Do you want to learn how to make professional looking upholstered wall panels for your van? Most high-end van builders use some form of upholstered wall panels backed in foam. Read on to learn how professional upholsterers achieve the padded and upholstered look.

Upholstered wall panels offer the look and feel that you get when you spend the big bucks on a custom van build. Outside Van, considered by many to be one of the premier van builders, discusses why they choose upholstered walls for their vans in this short video. In fact, we chose the same Interweave wall panel fabric and color that Outside Van uses in most of their builds. We have some left-over material. Be sure to calculate material for your needs. The photo above shows the extent of upholstery in our van.

The fabric upholstery is sold by the lineal yard. About the glue—resist the temptation to use 3M or other spray can-based adhesives. In the longterm, such products will not withstand the temperature variations in an automobile. The Dap Weldwood is what professional automotive upholsterers use. Begin by measuring the width and height of each area where a wall panel will reside.

Draw and cut the rough shape onto cardboard. You can now measure and trim-out for things like wheel arches. For complicated angles or curved surfaces, scribe to get a perfect translation from the surface to your wall panel. With our cardboard template complete, you can now trace the outline onto your wood panel. We used 5. If you have ANY questions about fitment, be sure to cut large, as you can always remove material later.

If you are doing cut-outs for windows, see our YouTube video for an easy trick. Our wall panels have only three screws each to hold them in place. The L-track retains the top of the lower wall panel and the bottom of the upper wall panel. The factory headliner holds the top of the wall panel in place.

We used one screw into the van metal near the front of the wall panel and two screws in the rear near the D-pillar. Your needs may be different depending on the size of your wall panels and your specific cabinetry layout. Now is the time to drill the necessary holes in the wooden wall panel to fasten it to the van. This is literally the same waterproof foam used on those padded vinyl roofs of the cars from the s.

Unroll the closed cell foam onto a large, flat surface.Forums New posts. What's new New posts. Log in Register. What's new. New posts. Log in.

sprinter ceiling panels

For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. How to remove Sprinter Cargo Van ceiling panels? Thread starter johnnydragonfly Start date Nov 14, Tags ceiling panel removal. I bought my Cargo Crew High in June, and simply love it.

Since then, and with very little research, my curiosities are on fire with what everyone is doing to these vehicles. I need to access the metal roof and my van has factory interior panels. I understand the few plastic push pins, but there must be more, hidden clips inside. Does anyone have any insight on how and where to begin? I'm stoked, but am not interested in destroying what is in place and fairly decent. Thanks in advance for your helpful insight.

And I have a million and one questions. Welcome to the forum. On a crew cargo I started in the rear with a plastic trim tool removing the tops and then the plastic fasteners around the back door. It is like a mushroom head anchor. Separate the head from the flange at the top of the anchor. Once separated the pin in the center releases the grip of the anchor then the whole plastic fastener will come out.

Once you do one you will see how the others work. Then there is one plastic fastener in the center of the forward part of that section. Different head but same principle. Then you have to lift up and in at the sides to get the tabs on the headliner out of the hole in the van side.

From there it basically the same process forward until you get to the cab. Starting in the rear going forward is the way it was designed but it is possible to remove one in the middle first but you will most likely have to replace some of the fasteners.These kits contain almost everything you need to get your van camper-ready and on the road, and most of them take less than a day to install with only some basic tools required.

Best of all they can be custom-designed, so you can build the van of your dreams without ever having to saw a single piece of wood. The only downside to van conversion kits of course is that they often cost significantly more than building a van from scratch yourself, although they sit in the mid-price range compared to coach-built motorhomes and pre-converted vans. The company was started by Bryan and Jen Danger from Portland, Oregon after being inspired by their own travels in a van.

A fold-out gear-drying rack attaches to the upper door panel of the sliding door and has 5 bamboo hooks for hanging wet gear on; it folds flat when not in use to allow the door to slide open as normal. Then 6mm marine-grade plywood panels, upholstered in a choice of fabric colors and pre-drilled for mounting power outlets, can be added; these come with LED lighting already installed, and all installation hardware is included.

Production time is around weeks, although the kits will only fit Mercedes Sprinters that are from or newer. For more information check out the Adventure Wagon website. Of all the kits in this list, Wandervans are offering the cheapest and most accessible route into Vanlife. They originally started as a camper rental company in Boise, Idaho but have since branched out into van conversion kits designed to fit both Ford Transit vans and Mercedes Sprinters.

sprinter ceiling panels

Their conversion kits are centered around either a single or double tier bed with a ladder, capable of sleeping two and four people respectively.

The lower bed can be removed to haul gear such as boards and bikes, or the mattress can be lifted up at the rear to create extra counter space or to create a sofa. The kit also includes hooks and storage, and a small kitchen unit with a stainless steel sink, hand pump tap and a 2 gallon water container.

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More information can be found over on the Wandervans website. So there we have it, the best Mercedes Sprinter Van conversion kits that can get you on the road quicker, easier and above all in style. All of these companies offer a great range of customizable and often modular kits that you can install yourself typically in less than a day, allowing you to have a custom fitted van interior with none of the hassle of DIY.

Share Pin Tweet Share Share. Best Campervan Bedding Options. Best Camper Van Water Tanks. Best Camper Van Sink Options. Notify of. Inline Feedbacks.Since we live in our van full time, it was really important to us for the interior to feel comfortable and finished--like a home.

We both like the rustic feel of cabins, so we knew we wanted a mostly wood interior. We landed on a tongue and groove cedar planks for the walls. Handheld circular saw and fence attachment. Power drill. Tape measure. Coping saw. Pull saw. Finishing sander. Small wire nails. Countersunk screws. Plastic panel fasteners The same amount the van comes with.

sprinter ceiling panels

Check your particular van, because these vary. Many van builds start by paneling the entire van from top to bottom early on. For us it made more sense for paneling the walls to be one of the final tasks on our list.

Cedar paneling is expensive, so there wasn't any point in putting it under the bed platform or behind our cabinets where in wouldn't be seen.

After a great deal of deliberation, and figuring out exactly how many planks we would need, and exactly how much pine, poplar, or cedar would cost, we finally decided that cedar was the best choice. It was significantly more expensive, but my dad had some full planks and many shorter scrap pieces left from when he built my parents house in the early s. We liked the idea of "reclaiming" this wood, and it was also free thanks, Dad!

Cedar has natural oils in it that make it resistant to damage from water or decay, which meant that it would be okay if left unfinished. We wanted to leave the walls unfinished, to reduce provide a contrast with our more glossy bed cabinets and fridge-storage bench.

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We have no regrets about using cedar. It gives the van a warm atmosphere, and every morning when we boil water to make coffee, we reminded by the fragrant scent of the cedar why we chose it for the inside of our van.

We only needed to buy about 15 planks of cedar for the van, so we bought them individually rather than in packs. We literally sorted through all of the some planks that Menard's had in stock before choosing our pieces. We wanted to make sure that all the pieces were very straight and not warped. A lot of the pieces we looked at had cracks or the tongue or groove were broken in places, so we avoided those as well. We also chose the pieces that had beautiful grain or knots. The driver side paneling is all dependent on the first piece of paneling that we installed behind the countertop, so it was critical that that piece be straight.

The wood stud peeking out behind the vapor barrier of the van. Installing these studs made installing the paneling simple. Putting up the cedar tongue and groove itself was actually probably easier than making the decision to use it. Prior insulating, we had installed "studs" into the walls of the van, which we attached the cabinetry and the paneling to.

The cedar paneling goes from the top of our counter and above our bed cabinets to the ceiling on the driver side. On the passenger side the paneling starts above our fridge bench and above bed platform and goes to the ceiling.

DIY camper van: 5 affordable conversion kits for sale

The first board on the driver side was one of the most critical pieces. We needed to make sure that it was level with the countertop and level with the van, because all of our all the other pieces would be attaching to this piece. Since our counter is more narrow than a traditional kitchen counter, we had to cut the 4-inch backsplash off the back of our laminate counter. We still wanted the transition between the counter and wall to look really clean, so we decided that the first piece of paneling should be behind the counter, rather than resting on top of it.

When we installed our countertop, we put this first piece behind our counter separate from the rest of the paneling.After installing 3 layers of insulationthe Maxx Air roof ventRhino-Rack roof railsand running all our wires for our solar and lighting, it was time to get our Sprinter ceiling ready for some paneling. We wanted to keep it simple and clean so we went with white hardboard paneling from Lowes.

Before the panels could be installed, we needed some sort of furring strips. I attached them using tie plates. The tie plates were then fastened to the metal ribs with screws and rivnut inserts.

The curved area of the ceiling above the slider was a little tricky so I made a little bracket out of aluminum to attach the furring strip.

Ceiling Panels

It took some time, but I figured it would be worth it in the end especially with the quick connectors. The lights are in two zones, 4 front and 4 rear. I wired them on a dimmer and put RV style light switches at the front in the B pillar and rear corner of the van.

This is basically what I used for most low power-consuming devices and outlets in the van. The dual conductor wire and jacket makes things much easier to run wire.

Up front, there was just enough room between the paneling and the Thinsulate to install a couple Polk DB Ultramarine 6.

To give the screws a much more finished look, I used these screw covers I found on Amazon. CR Lawrence, the same company that makes the side vent windows, is who makes these.

They worked great for 8 screws. After the speakers were installed and all the screws were tightened up, the ceiling was done! The rough edge sides will get mostly covered up by the walls and we also plan to install back-lit valences eventually.

Paneling Our Van Walls and Ceilings

Wall Panel connectors. White hardboard. Polk DB Ultramarine 6. Dual conductor 16 gauge wire. Do more with less! That is my motto lately. I love getting outdoors and exploring new places, usually on my KTM motorcycle. My wife, Anna, and I recently bought and built out a Sprinter van to do more of the things we love. Traveling and seeing new places is always at the top of our to-do list.

Read More. When it came to choosing how we wanted to do the floor in our van, Like most people with a van know, storage space is limited. Making use of wasted This is one of the most exciting steps in the van build process. For months In my recent van tweaking, I discovered how valuable the rear doors of our Sprinter Running water is a game-changer when it comes to camping in a van.

We wanted One of the first and most important things we did to our van was to Getting ready to build a Sprinter campervan?Forums New posts. What's new New posts. Log in Register. What's new. New posts.

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Log in. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Using oem ceiling panels in conversion. HighPockets Member. Does anyone convert vans leaving or installing oem ceiling panels?

I have an '07 cargo van and may have available some panels out of a '11 Sprinter. Seems that would save a lot of time though I would still have to work out supports for installed furniture.

Any comments or links to previous posts or builds would be appreciated. I used the OEM headliner in my crew.

sprinter ceiling panels

It looks nice, but I'm not sure I would do it again: 1 Some headroom is lost in corners. I had to do a fair bit of extra work for the upper l-track. Last edited: Jan 3, Member name GeorgeRA used the factory headliner in his professional looking conversion complete with upper cabinets.

I left it in as well in my conversion but the only thing I did to modify the headliner was to cut it and install my electrical panel and Maxaire fan. My build thread is in my signature below. The OEM headliner cuts pretty easy so there is some flexibility on placement of things except for the holes for the existing dome lights. I looked for George's build thread but couldn't find it right off. Good luck. Here it is.Lots of exposed metal, no insulation, and no storage space. We stripped out all the stock plastic wall panels and headlinerthen we got to work creating a cosy, livable space.

We put this on top of the factory wood floorheld in place with flanged l-track. We also used flanged l-track to hold the wall panels up. We insulated behind them with Thinsulate against the van walls, then an air gap, then a layer of Low-E foil faced closed cell foam. The ceiling was built up the same way. In the front of the van, we used bamboo ply below the windows.

They bolt in to the l-track mounted in the wall and floor. The countertop is Stratum by Richlite. We may even re-build our other cabinets using it. Two rolled steel rails and three aluminum panel frames. You add your own plywood facing to the panel frames. They sit on rails mounted to the walls. The mattress and bedding go on top of the panels. During the winter we add a 12 Volt mattress heating pad. When we want to use the van to carry larger items or on biking day trips, we just take the bed panels out so we have full height access to the entire rear area.

How I Made and Upholstered Marine Vinyl Ceiling Panels with LUAN Plywood in a DIY Sprinter VAN BUILD

The back of the van is where the bikes live. But they have to play nice and share that space with our bed, the battery and electrical control panelthe water tank, and the shower hose. Skip to content. Storage space The back of the van is where the bikes live. What we used: L-track logistic track from Amazon. With Prime shipping, this works out to be a real bargain compared to some of the specialist sites that also sell it.

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Stratum countertop from Edensaw. My neighbor has an account with a specialty supplier.


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